Living La Vida Vegana In Cozumel
After spending time Mérida and then Valladolid, Mexico, I found myself longing for sea but wanting to avoid large crowds, other tourists, and people partying into the early hours of the morning. Although many folks suggest going to Playa del Carmen or Tulum (I’ve heard great and not so great things about both places!), I decided to do things a little differently and check out Cozumel, the island that is just a ferry ride away from Playa del Carmen.
Traveling through Mexico? Check out my guides to Mérida and Valladolid!
The Ferry Ride From Playa Del Carmen
Before we dive into the adventures that you can experience on Cozumel, we must talk about the ferry ride there. It is not for the faint of stomach, but to me, it was so worth it! My partner and I took WinJet because it was a bit cheaper than some of the other ferries but reliable.
How Much The Ferry Costs
One ticket per adult person costs $220 Mexican Pesos, or $10.57 USD. You can buy them at the ferry dock or here online ahead of time. (If you’re in a rush or want to make sure you catch the ferry on time, buy your tickets ahead of time! This is a busy area and you may get to the booth and they’re all sold out.) The ride from one piece of land to the other took about forty minutes and was a bit choppy.
A Nauseating Boat Ride
I expected to be able to go out on the ferry deck and enjoy the air and sun, but quickly realized that we were to stay inside in our seats until the ride ended. The best way to paint a picture of our ride for you is to ask you to recall a time that you rode a carnival ride, got that funny feeling in your stomach when you hit bumps or experienced a sudden drop, and hold on to that. That was a feeling that we felt on the ferry, and when it is paired with music playing and a large TV going in front of you, it is the perfect recipe for seasickness. Our ride to the island provoked more sickness (an afternoon ride) for me than our ride back to Playa del Carmen (a morning ride). But alas, we arrived safe and sound! We had researched the island ahead of time but had no idea just how beautiful it was or how sad we would be to go.
In 2024 I took the ferry again from Cozumel to Playa del Carmen and back with a different company. I was able to access the deck and get some air, so the ride was a lot smoother and less nauseating. You can buy your tickets, get updated prices, and more here.
Where To Stay In Cozumel (Budget Friendly)
We booked an Airbnb ran by a local woman that was simple yet complete. She was kind, welcoming, and happy to help us figure out what to do with our time according to our budget and interests. Renting an Airbnb on a budget made sense to my partner and I because we split nightly accommodations, meaning that each night only costed each of us $10 USD. For those traveling solo or wanting something even cheaper, be sure to check out the various hostels on the island through HostelWorld.
Now, let’s move on and discuss some activities and food options that are vegan and budget friendly!
The Island Best Activities To Do On Cozumel
1. Snorkel “El Cielo” In Cozumel
Trust me, you don’t want to leave the island without doing so unless you don’t like to swim or can’t get into the water. Cozumel is known for it’s snorkeling and diving. The great thing about Cozumel is that you can easily rent or buy your own snorkel gear from just about anywhere on the island and head straight to the beach. We noticed that most beaches have incredible reefs and sea life bustling very close to the shoreline. We ended up buying one pair of goggles from a dive shop and I fell in love with the aquatic world that lies just below the surface. Be sure to only use reef-friendly sunscreen or none at all when swimming and snorkeling. Learn how sunscreen damages coral reefs and ocean life here.
A note about the beaches on Cozumel: If you end up staying on the West side of the Island in San Miguel, you’ll notice that the main port and some of the beaches that line the main street are very touristy, a bit loud, and often require a payment to enter. For something more natural, free, and relaxing, refer to the locals! We asked our host for her beach suggestions and she pointed us in the right direction. We rented bikes from her and found our own little beach paradise!
Guided Snorkel Tours In Cozumel
Another option for snorkeling or diving is to go on a guided tour. You can check out some of them through Airbnb experiences or through GetYourGuide, a trusted activity booking site.. We took a guided tour, ran by a local company called Compadre Tours, and had a fantastic day. When you arrive to Playa del Carmen or Cozumel, you’ll most likely be rushed by folks offering snorkeling/diving tours. To get a better deal and feel more confident with your tour selection, ask your host or a local which company is best. We ended up booking a snorkel trip where we went to three different swimming spots through our Airbnb host and got a better price than other tourists. Speaking Spanish will also often help you get a discount.
On our snorkeling adventure we ended up seeing dolphins from the boat and stingrays, starfish, fish, and more in the water. Our day on the sea ended with the sighting of a double rainbow as we pulled back into the dock. We got really lucky on our tour and I’m glad that we had a guide to take us out to different and deeper spots in the ocean.
2. Tour The Island By Bike
I would honestly go back to the island just to bike it again. Besides my bike tour (partly) across the USA in 2015, I casually bike here and there for fun. So I was a bit nervous about a 40 mile loop on the island. Besides being a little sore on my bottom after the ride, I actually felt refresh, energized, and relaxed. The famous loop starts in San Miguel, cuts through town to the other side of the island, takes you down the more untouched East coast, and brings you right back to where you started. I don’t know how to stress this to you more: Bike the route if you can! Bikers get the best views of the ocean and coastline as the biking trail that is as big as a normal road is right off of the water. The regular road for vehicles is beside it and parts of the coastline are hidden from view.
If You Don’t Want To Bike, Still Experience The Loop
If you can’t or don’t want to explore the loop by bike, be sure to either rent a car, motorbike, or scooter. You can also hire out a taxi for the day to drive the loop, stopping as you please. The East side of the island is unlike anything that I’ve ever seen; the jungle hugs the road and coastline in a lot of places for a perfect combination of earth and water elements.
We biked the route on a cloudy day and started around 9:30, leaving a lot of open roads and empty beaches for us to enjoy. Doing the bike loop takes a little bit of planning and it is important to note that in some parts of the East coast of the island there is no running water, cellphone signal, or electricity. But friendly shops, cafes, and restaurants dot the coastline so you are never quite alone and there is almost always a place to hydrate and grab some food nearby.
Where To Rent A Bike In Cozumel
We rented bikes from Best Bikes Cozumel, but you can also check out this guided tour by GetYourGuide, a trusted travel activity provider. I feel like we hit the jackpot with Best Bikes Cozumel because the bikes were sturdy, comfortable, and affordable. We needed bikes that would hold up and support us on the 40 mile loop, but didn’t need the most expensive rides with fancy gear. Best Bikes Cozumel helped us find bikes that fit us well and the staff members were easy to communicate with. We paid $25 USD for 2 bikes, locks, and helmets for about 8 hours. Be ready to pay in cash and be sure to check the prices online as they are subject to change. Your total cost for the day is dependent on which type of bike you rent. You can also rent snorkel gear to take with you from the shop.
The Top Highlights Of The Bike Loop
My favorite parts of the bike tour included the endless vistas of crystal-clear greenish blue ocean waters, abandoned buildings on a beach that create epic views, Bob Marley bar, a sighting of a wild boar, swimming/snorkeling at Playa Chen Rio, and seeing the crocodiles who reside just across the road from Playa Chen Rio. The cherry on top of the whole day was when we realized that there is a 100% vegan restaurant right across the street from Best Bikes Cozumel that is open until 9 PM. Be sure to stop over and grab a bite after returning your bike and a full day of biking! And with that, let’s explore the food on Cozumel!
3. All Things Vegan Food
Cozumel is surprisingly vegan-friendly when it comes to food. Although the island can start to seem small after multiple days of adventure, the plant-based food options are expansive. While many folks like to save the best for last, that’s exactly where we are going to start.
Paradise Vegan
Paradise Vegan was our favorite restaurant on the island. The restaurant is a small space just off of the street with two plastic sets of tables and chairs. The meals are home-cooked, delicious, healthy, creative, and extremely affordable.
There is a different menu each day and one meal usually cost $65 Mexican Pesos, or $3.12 USD. While many places in Mexico serve smaller portion sizes than those in the USA, I never left Paradise Vegan without feeling fully satisfied. In addition to the ‘meal of the day’, the restaurant also offers fresh juices, horchata, and has a smaller consistent menu that offers things like burritos and burgers.
Nirvana Foods
Nirvana Foods is a 100% vegan grocery store ran by some lovely folks just down the street from Paradise Vegan. The shop owners will even deliver groceries to you and were very welcoming with each visit. The grocery store is stocked with specialty vegan meats, cheeses, dry goods, treats, chocolates, nut butters, and more.
They even had a wonderful section for low-waste body products that are made by a local Mexican woman. I bought the face soap and hair conditioner and was extremely impressed by how well they both worked!
Neeta’s Kitchen
Neeta’s Kitchen is a vegan food service that is connected to Nirvana Foods. Although we never got to try the food, I hear that it is incredibly flavorful! Contact Neeta’s Kitchen through their Facebook page or at +52-9878000520.
Cocinando Experiencias
Cocinando Experiencias is the restaurant that I mentioned earlier that is right across the street from the bike shop. From the street you can see a circular sign with the vegan “V”. Take the stairs up and you’ll find yourself in a hostel, but look to the left and you’ll see exactly what you’re looking for. This restaurant offers a fun atmosphere and delicious food. They have various sandwiches (they make the vegan meat and cheese in house – yum!), burritos, smoothies, juices, desserts, and more. I only ate here once but was very proud of my decision to try the cheese sticks as an appetizer. You will not regret it!
Vegan Travel
When looking for vegan food, I always refer to HappyCow. It is free and lists vegan restaurants and vegan options near you. Here are more food options for Cozumel and Playa del Carmen. Please be sure to tip at each restaurant and leave a review on Google, Facebook or HappyCow for your favorite vegan restaurants and cafes.
