A Complete Guide To Hiking The Quilotoa Loop In Ecuador (Budget & Vegan Friendly)
The Quilotoa loop is now one of the most famous trekking spots in Ecuador, and after spending a few days making my way through the remote villages that rest up high in the Andes, I fully understand why. The bustling cities in Ecuador are noisy, vivid and exciting (and may I add a little chaotic?), but hiking through the country’s rural land was something entirely different and utterly special.
In this guide we’ll discuss how to hike the loop, where to start, what to bring, safety factors to consider, what to do if you suffer from altitude sickness, and more. First, I have some great news for you: The Quilotoa loop can be done without a guide or porter, and many inexperienced backpackers enjoy this loop daily. I myself am not the best hiking backpacker, but this loop made me more confident in the end, and was well worth any struggle that I experienced while on the trail.
Is The Quilotoa Loop Safe?
Before we dive into some more technical parts of the hike, let’s hash out the subject of safety. This is something that I wanted to know about before I even planned my route. We all experience and live with different levels of privilege, and solo female travelers or female travelers in general are usually aware that there is a risk posed to us daily.
So I won’t tell you that the loop is 100% safe for anyone, but I will tell you that I met a young solo female hiker on the trail who had no problems at all, and that there were many women hiking the trail in small groups that felt very safe. I personally felt safe the whole time on the trail when it came to interacting with locals and other hikers, and have heard countless others echo the same feelings. All of the locals that I encountered on the trail wished us well as we passed by, gave us directions if we were lost, and sent huge smiles our way despite our encounters being brief.
Can I Hike The Trail Solo?
The cool thing about the Quilotoa loop is that you often have the option to spend little time alone (even if you do this as a solo hiker) because other people will be hiking the trail as well. It’s easy to start your day hiking with strangers that you just met on the trail and then end that same day as pals and comrades, swapping stories around the fire at night. We hiked the loop in the slower season (the rainy season) and ran into three hikers the first day, and then many hiking groups the second and third day, as we all left the hostels around the same time.
So yes, you can hike the trail solo if you feel like it’s the right thing for you while still being aware of the risks. If you start the trail solo you probably won’t end it solo, and it’s nice to know that people will be there to support and help you along the way.
The Biggest Threats On The Trail
The biggest safety concerns that I had while hiking the trail had nothing to do with other humans. The biggest risk that I encountered during the whole experience was getting altitude sickness while in a really remote area with nowhere to go but up. We’ll discuss how to prepare for this and what to do if this happens to you later in this post.
My second concern that I had on the trail was about bulls and dogs. You’ll be hiking through rural areas where farmed animals are sometimes blocking the path and stray dogs roam. The best thing that you can do is carry a few stones in your pocket in case you need to scare a dog away, and pick up a walking stick so that you can safely navigate around cows in the road by gently pushing/guiding them off the trail.
Is The Trail Too Intense For Me?
It’s hard for me to say who the trail is “meant for” and who it is not. You know your body and abilities better than anyone, so it’s up to you to hear me out on my experience and make an educated decision for yourself. I’m someone who is able-bodied and who either swims, does yoga, or runs/walks about five days of the week to keep my body moving and groovin’ (but nothing super intense!). The three day loop was a challenge for me for sure, but a lot of that was due to the altitude sickness making it harder for me to breathe/promoting dizziness. With that in mind, I still struggled a bit with the constant uphill hiking, but I went at a pace that was right for me, took breaks when it was necessary, it didn’t push myself over the edge.
REMINDER: The hike is not a race so DO NOT feel like you have to match anyone’s pace or finish the loop in the same time as others. It’s awesome that you’re even attempting to do the loop, and it’s important grow through new challenges like this while also keeping your wellness in mind.
Why I Almost Gave Up
During our first day on the loop I really struggled with the altitude and ending up having to go extremely slow. It just so happened that this intense feeling of wanting to vomit and pass out (while struggling to breathe) was happening just as a huge thunderstorm rolled in. As we were slowly (and I mean at a snail’s pace) inching our way up the mountain while getting completely drenched, I started feeling bad about myself as other people passed us and seemed to not be struggling at all. I questioned why I thought that I could do it in the first place and even plotted how I would quit when I made it town. But alas pushed on, and was so glad that I did so in the end.
If you start the loop and find that it is not worth the struggle for you to continue, know that you can always catch a bus from one main town to another where the hostels are located (or even hitch a ride). If you decided to take this route, ask your hostel for directions on how to catch a bus and make it to the next destination.
Managing Altitude Sickness
I haven’t always been prone to altitude sickness, but lately it has been hitting me hard during elevated adventures. It first struck me while I was hiking the famous Acatenango volcano in Guatemala, and after that I knew that I had to be proactive when it came to taking on hikes at high altitudes.
So how can you avoid altitude sickness? It can be impossible to completely avoid for some, but there are some precautions you can take to try to prevent becoming ill. I am no doctor, but the best thing that I’ve found is to get and take altitude sickness pills before and during an elevated adventure. In the United States you must have a prescription for high grade altitude sickness pills, so be sure to visit a doctor where you can get a prescription at least a few days before your trip. It is recommended to take 2 altitude sickness pills a day 24 hours before you reach a high altitude, and then continue taking them while you’re there. So before I flew into Quito, Ecuador I was taking the pills and continued to do so while the Quilotoa loop. To prevent/help with altitude sickness you must also drink a lot of water and stay hydrated.
Additionally, you don’t want to hike this loop as soon as you fly into Ecuador. Be sure to climatize yourself for a few days at a high altitude location before heading to a high elevation and hiking. The Quilotoa loop starts in Sigchos at 9,350 feet and eventually climbs up to Quilatoa at 12,467 feet. There are many decedents and climbs along the way, no matter which way you hike the loop and you want your body to be ready for the changes in altitude.
If you do find yourself struggling with the altitude remember to take your time, listen to your body, and take breaks when you need them. Panicking only makes it worse, so try to breathe calmly and take it one step at a time.
Planning Your Trip: Consider The 2 Main Options For Hiking The Quilotoa Loop
Now that you’ve heard about the safety concerns on the trail and my struggle story, let’s start at the beginning of the planning process and get technical. Many people aren’t sure where to actually begin hiking the loop, but this is something that you’ll want to figure out first so that you can plan your route, where to stay at night, and figure out how to get where you need to go.
You can hike the route two different ways and each have different benefits. Either way, you’re going to want to stay in Latacunga the night before your hike. You’ll want to set off as early as you can on the first day of your loop adventure, and this is the closest jump-off town where travelers do just that. We’ll talk about directions to Latacunga later on in this post.
You can either begin your hike in Sigchos, where you’re starting at a lower attitude and steadily climbing up; or you can begin at Quilotoa where you’re starting at the highest point (the Quilotoa crater lake) and hiking the other direction, which will be more downhill.
It’s important to know that regardless of the route that you choose, you will be climbing and descending, wearily (or hopefully eagerly?) hiking down just to go straight back up for most of the time on the trail, so don’t assume that starting in Quilotoa means that the whole experience will be a breeze.
The Advantage To Starting In Isinlivi
We began our three day trek in Isinlivi for two different reasons: First of all, if you begin your hike at the crater lake you’ve already seen one of the most stunning vistas with no build-up. It was fun to slowly make our way to the crater, which is the main highlight of trail, knowing that each day we were getting closer.
Secondly, I often struggle with altitude sickness, so it was better to let my body slowly acclimate every single day as we got higher and higher in altitude. If you suffer from altitude sickness problems and start at the high point in Quilotoa, you may assume that it’ll be OK because you’re going down in elevation, but you must remember that you are in the mountains and you will be going up and down constantly like I mentioned before. So no matter where you start, you will have to climb up, and starting at a lower point and steadily gaining height was easier on my body (we will discuss altitude sickness below!).
The advantage to beginning your trek in Sigchos is obvious: you’ll be descending more than you have to ascend, making the hike easier for you overall if you don’t suffer from altitude sickness.
How Many Days Do You Need To Complete The Loop?
As I mentioned before, we spent three days and two nights on the loop. This offered us enough time to hike calmly, stop and take pictures, talk to pigs and their chicken neighbors, and get turned around a time or two while still making it to our hostels each night at a decent hour. But there is no set number of days that it “should” take you to hike the loop. If you’re interested in/need to go slower on the trail, you can plan for more days on the loop. If you’re super speedy, you may plan for less.
There are people who only have two days to spend on the trail, and those who would rather hike it all in two days. If you have enough stamina and will power to do the whole trail and two days, rock on! Good for you. There’s no way that I was going to do the whole loop in two days, but it can be done. If you’re just spending two days on the loop (not because you’re a super-human and will cover the whole trek in a small amount of time, but because it’s all the time that you have), I highly suggest skipping the first day’s hike from Sigchos to Isinlivi and just begin in Isinlivi, hiking from there to Chugchilan, and then from Chugchilan to Quilotoa. Those two days on the trail were the most beautiful, naturally diverse, and had stunning vistas that you don’t want to miss.
What To Pack For The Quilotoa Loop
The weather that you’ll experience along the loop changes quickly but can be a bit predictable. The mornings usually start off clear and sunny, and then the rain tends to move in during the afternoon from 1:30-3:00 PM. To avoid getting stuck in the rain like we did, try and start your hiking days as early as possible.
We did the hike in January and felt that the weather was ideal. The mornings were warm enough to wear shorts (but not deadly hot) and the afternoons had a nice breeze. Another benefit to hiking the Quilotoa loop during the rainy season like we did is that when you reach the sandy parts of the hike you won’t have to deal with sand blowing in your face, and you get more bang out of each step that you take. If you hike the loop during June and September (during the dry season) you will most likely have to fight against the sand around lagoon when you reach that part.
No matter what season you decide to hike in, it’s important to note that it’s much colder around the lagoon than it is on the rest of the loop. For the first two days of hiking I wore light pants, hiking boots, and a short sleeved shirt with a long sleeve shirt close by in case I got a little chilly. But when we reached Quilotoa I was happy to have a hat, heavier coat, and gloves for the last few hours of the hike. Check out this packing list before you begin your adventure:
- Rain jacket
- Rain poncho (this is a must!)
- Water
- Plant-based snacks
- Hiking boots
- Hiking Pants
- Multiple layers (t-shirt, long sleeve shirt, hoodie/jacket)
- Camera
- Sunscreen
- Sunglasses
- Cash money
- Travel insurance
- Water bottle/bladder
- Hiking poles (optional)
- Warm hat
- Sandals (optional to use in the evenings, they are provided at the Cloud Forest hostel)
- Bug repellent (weather depending)
How To Get To The Quilotoa Loop
Due to the hike growing in popularity, it’s easy to access from the capital of Ecuador in Quito, where the bus leaves from the south terminal (Quitumbe) every 30 minutes to Latacunga, where you will begin your journey. The bus ride takes about 2 hours and the cost is $2.30. Whenever you’re on a bus in Ecuador, be sure to have your possessions close by and keep and eye on them to prevent theft.
If you’re somewhere else in the country, you’ll need to make your way to Latacunga to start the loop. From Latacunga you can catch the bus to Sigchos or Isinlivi, depending on where you decide to start. You’ll want to head to the same terminal where you arrived to Latacunga, and there the buses to those destinations depart about every hour starting at 6:00 AM. It is not necessary to buy a bus ticket ahead of time. Simply show up to the terminal, look for a storefront that displays your destination, and buy your ticket with cash. You can also skip the counter and just pay for your ticket on the bus.
The bus ride from Latacunga to Sigchos costs $2.30 and takes around 2 hours. Remember to catch the bus as early as possible on the first day of your hike so that you can start your hike at a decent hour and beat the rain in the afternoon.
Storing Your Luggage In Latacunga
If you’re like me you’re traveling around with luggage that is too heavy to carry with you as you hike the loop. In this case, you’ll want to store your luggage at a hostel/hotel in Latacunga. This city is really only known for being a jump-off point to the loop for travelers, so most places should offer luggage storage for around $1 per bag a day. The hostel that I stayed at had a room dedicated to storing bags while people hiked the loop that was well locked, had video surveillance, and provided lockers where you could lock your personal belongings away if you brought your own lock and key set with you.
Where To Stay Along The Way
If you bring your own camping supplies with you as you hike the loop, you’ll be able to set up in a few dedicated camping spots in towns along the way or outside of hostels/inns along the loop. But if you’re wanting to pack lighter and have a more comfortable experience, you’ll be happy to know that I was extremely pleased with the lodging that we found along the way.
Every place that we stayed at offered comfortable beds, warm showers, wifi connection, and a heater to dry any clothes that got drenched during the day’s trek. Most importantly, breakfast and dinner was included at all of them and they made excellent vegan meals by request. They also offered simple packed lunches that you could buy and take with you on your journey the following day (they were easily able to make these plant-based, too!).
We found our stays through Booking.com. It seemed to be the easiest way to reserve and manage bookings as we traveled. I usually use HostelWorld, but for some of these smaller towns HostelWorld doesn’t have any listings.
Check Out These Hotels
Along the way we stayed at Hotel Café Tiana in Latacunga, Hostal Taita Cristobal in Isinlivi, and Hostal Cloud Forest in Chugchilan. Hostel Cloud Forest was my favorite because they had an cool game room, awesome meals, and the owner of the place helped create and work to maintain the Quilotoa loop.
For those who hike the loop in the same direction as we did, there is an option to stay in Quilotoa overnight on your last day. Instead of doing that we took the bus back to Latacunga so that we could move along the next morning to our next destination in Ecuador. Quilotoa is pretty touristy (not to mention more expensive than the other stops along the loop) and I feel like we made the right choice by not spending the night there.
How Do I Get Back To Latacunga From Quilotoa?
Once you’ve bade it to Quilotaoa, congrats, rejoice! I’m sure that it’s been quite a journey. Once you reach Quilotoa it’s pretty easy to get back to Latacunga. You’ll walk off the trail straight into town and walk straight through it. When we were there the last bust to Latacunga left around 5:00 PM, so we arrived a couple hours ahead of time just to be sure that we would make it back. If it’s before 5:00 PM and local drivers are telling you that there are no more busses, they are lying.
When we stayed at the Cloud Forest the owner warned us that this would happen. He told us that the drivers in Quilotoa often tell hikers this so that they have to take private transportation back to Latacunga. Don’t be fooled and walk to the other side of town to catch the bus. You’ll eventually see a big bus sign on your left and a little gift shop with benches where you can wait to catch a bus for a couple of bucks back to Latacunga.
After completing the three day loop I came to the conclusion that it was pretty well mark, but that I was happy to have maps and apps to help along the way. I would say that the first day in Isinlivi was a little bit confusing and missing some markers. Thankfully, a local elderly woman was heading in the same direction as us and guided us along the way.
If you get lost, try not to freak out. The locals are used to hikers and will most likely be happy to help you get back on the right path. Everyone seems to get turned around a time or two on the Quilotoa loop, so just chalk it up to part of the experience.
I found that asking locals, following the markers to the best of my ability, using the paper maps that the hostels hand out, and using the app maps.me made for solid navigation. Be sure to download the maps.me app while you have service/wifi and download the maps that you’ll be needing ahead of time. If you’re not familiar with the app, I suggest playing with it to familiarize yourself a day or two in advance. Maps.me works offline, so it’s helpful to consult when you’re out in wild with no service.
Take Advantage Of Your Host’s Knowledge Of The Trail
At each hostel that we stayed at along the loop the hosts did a morning briefing with all of us hikers before we headed out to hit the trail. Use that morning briefing to ask any questions that you have, take notes, and study the map.
Travel Insurance For Travel Adventures
I used to skip out on travel insurance, but there are so many unknowns we face while traveling these days. I never let that stop me from pursuing my travel dreams, but with epic adventures on the horizon I feel more comfortable in my wanderings knowing that I am protected by SafetyWing. As you read in this post, there are often unexpected (and a little strange?) risks that pop up along our travels weather it be altitude sickness, mad bulls, or wild dogs (thankfully I just had to experience the altitude sickness on this hike!). Additionally, I am always traveling on a small budget and have found them to be the most affordable option for me when it comes to travel insurance.
You’ve Completed The Loop, Now What?
Ecuador is an incredible country with diverse landscapes, fresh foods, and memorable adventures around every corner. Be sure to read all of my guides to Ecuador to plan your route (like this awesome guide to Baños) and check out the “Ecudaor” highlight on my Instagram page for more inspiration. Happy travels!
