A Trip To Is Ait-Ben-Haddou: What To Know About Visiting This Ancient Earthen Community

Looking out through a half-oval shaped crack in the bottom of the wall, I could see mute hues of blues, greens, browns, and even purple stretch for miles. After wandering my way through the ancient earthen community known as Aït Benhaddo, I was rewarded at the top with the epic view stretched out below.

Is Ait-Ben-Haddou Worth Visiting?

You might be wondering, Is Aït Benhaddo Worth Visiting? I asked the same thing myself while traveling Morocco, among many other things. This UNESCO World Heritage site pulls in visitors from around the globe each year who have seen pictures online or heard about the great earthen city that’s not too far from Marrakesh. As someone who is interested in learning more about natural buildings and eco-focused living styles, visiting the city was totally worth it, even if it is one of the most popular tourist sites in Morocco. But there are some things that you should know before your visit. (And yes, as of January 2024 Aït Benhaddo is open after the earthquake.)

What Is Ait-Ben-Haddou Known For?

The area that you can visit at Aït Benhaddo is called a ksar, which is a collective group of dwellings inside defensive walls that are reinforced by corner towers. Located in the foothills of the souther slopes of the High Atlas mountains, the ksar contains homes, community areas, graveyards, trinket shops, cafes, and stalls for farmed animals.

The UNESCO World Heritage site explains further: “It is an extraordinary ensemble of buildings offering a complete panorama of pre-Saharan earthen construction techniques. The oldest constructions do not appear to be earlier than the 17th century, although their structure and technique were propagated from a very early period in the valleys of southern Morocco. The site was also one of the many trading posts on the commercial route linking ancient Sudan to Marrakesh by the Dra Valley and the Tizi-n’Telouet Pass.”

While road tripping through Morocco my partner and I saw various other earthen communities that had similar appearances to Aït Benhaddo in the High Atlas Mountains. We were in awe of how they seemed to rise up out of the desert as you got closer but continued to blend in with their natural surroundings. So why has Aït Benhaddo become so popular? If I had to guess, I would say that it is because of its proximity to Marrakesh, the visibility that it has been given by the movies that have been filmed there, and the fact that it is preserved as a UNESCO World Heritage site which allows it to be open to visitors.

What To Know Before You Visit

Visiting the ksar feels like stepping back in time; that is, if you can get there before the hurried flocks of tourists arrive. If you’re renting a car and road tripping around Morocco, you have a huge advantage in visiting Aït Benhaddo. My partner and I got there around 9:00 AM and only saw a few other people entering the ksar. That means that we were able to roam inside freely and quietly reflect on the whimsical architecture and stunning details that surrounded us. It’s also important to note that we visited during January, which is a slower tourism season for Morocco, so if you’re visiting during the summer I advise you to get there even earlier.

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How Far Is Ait-Ben-Haddou From Marrakech?

Driving From Marrakech To Ait-Ben-Haddou

Driving from Marrakech to Aït Benhaddo is a 4 hour car ride that will pull you up the small and winding roads of the Tizi N’Tichka pass and through rural mountainous villages. If you’re renting a car and plan on doing this drive yourself, read our guide to driving in the High Atlas Mountains so that you know what to expect before you go. Take “4 hours” with a grain of salt; if there are bad weather conditions, rock slides, or construction happening on the road, 4 hours can easily turn into 6 or more. That’s why I would recommend driving and staying close by the day before so that you can have a smooth and easy drive to Aït Benhaddo.

Accommodation Close To Ait-Ben-Haddou

While visiting Aït Benhaddo we stayed about 30 minutes away in a traditonal Berber home that was built by a Abdellah Nabila, a passionate local who is the associative manager of his village called Tadoula. The village is quite new but neighbors an older village that is elegantly decaying and can be observed from the home’s earthen rooftop patio. Staying there was a unique experience as the house doubles as an eclectic museum that will give you a unique insight into art and music in Tadoula and Berber culture as a whole. The village is a 30 minute drive from Ouarzazate and a 20 minute drive to Aït Benhaddo.

Out host, Abdellah (otherwise known as Abdou), had a warm personality and was eager to welcome us not only into his home but also his lifestyle. Before we left we joined him for a family music night that began with just us and his two young sons. Beating on hand-made drums and singing tunes that were passed down from elder generations, the room filled as neighbors heard the thrumming beats and slipped in the door. Before we knew it cousins, friends, and neighbors young and old were joining in on the jam session. Being able to relax and authentically connect with people who live in the area will only add to your experience of visiting Aït Benhaddo.

Taking The Bus From Ait-Ben-Haddou From Marrakech

If you’re unable or unwilling to drive you can still experience Aït Benhaddo, but it might just be more crowded and rushed. There’s the option to take a Supratours or CTM bus to Ouarzazate, and from there a taxi from Ouarzazate to Ait Ben Haddou. If you have the budget for it though, I highly recommend taking one of the following day trips below:

These guided day trips are quicker than the coach buses and you’ll get the added bonus of seeing the area with someone who knows where to go and can fill you in about the history along the way.

Is Ait-Ben-Haddou Free?

Aït Benhaddo is supposedly free, but when we arrived (in true Moroccan fashion) there was someone waiting for payment at the entrance. After speaking to them further, we learned that they were part of one of the families that still lived in the ksar and were using the collected fee to continue renovating and preserving the structures. We could see lots of people mixing cob and repairing sections of the nearest homes, so we each paid 20 MAD (or $2 USD) and went inside.

Upon departure we realized that there were other entrances and exits, so if you’re on an extremely tight budget you can try your luck at another entrance to avoid paying. It is important to pay local people for their work, preservation efforts and openness to share their homes though, and you may find some other locals who still live there who will allow you to tour their homes for a fee.

What To Bring On Your Day Trip

Wether you’re driving or coming by other means of transport, be sure to bring enough water to stay hydrated, sun protection, and small change with you. There are many trinket stores inside of Aït Benhaddo and out. There are also “grocery stores” and cafes where you can purchase water, snacks, and sit down for a meal. We ate at two different restaurants there and were able to find plant-based, vegan friendly meals at both.

More About Natural Buildings

Aside from providing you with free budget and vegan-friendly itineraries, the Unruly Travel & Living corner of the internet is a place to explore a multitude of topics, including natural buildings and off-grid living. If you’re ready to dive into the fascinating world of either, read 13 Important Books On Natural Building Materials, Techniques, And More and What Is A Cob House, Are They Easy To Build, And How Much Do They Cost? on the Unruly Travel & Living blog.