How To Get From Ometepe To Granada, Nicaragua (From Budget-Friendly Buses To Shuttles)
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Ometepe, reached through the San Jorge ferry port, is a lush and biologically beautiful stop to make on your trip to Nicaragua. When it’s time to move on to your next stop, chances are you’ll need to get from Ometepe to Granada. When I was done exploring the island by scooter, I took the surprisingly long journey to our next pin on the map. And there are a few ways to do just that, some more comfortable but more expensive than others. In this blogpost we’ll explore all of the options.
San Jorge To Granada By Bus: Around $6
I can’t tell you how to take a chicken bus from Ometepe to Granada without recounting the interesting (and somewhat unnerving) story of what happened to us along this route. My advice to backpackers who go the budget route is to catch the ferry as early as possible because you’ll have a long day ahead of you. Getting by bus from Ometepe to Granada is not as straight-forward as one would think it would be.
It will look like this: Ometepe accommodation — > 1 hour ferry ride — > short taxi or bus ride to Rivas bus station — > a couple hours on the chicken bus — > walk or taxi to Granada accommodation
Catching The Ferry From Ometepe To San Jorge
First things first, to get off the island you’ll have to catch a ferry back to the mainland. Ferries run most of the day (check with your accommodation to confirm the current schedule) and cost 50 cordobas, or $1.36 USD, one way. For us, we started our day at El Pital, a completely vegan hostel, which meant that we had a 1.5 hour ride to return the scooters and then a 15 minute walk to the ferry port. Once there, you’ll purchase your ticket from a small window that is mixed in with other local businesses (a local will point you in the right direction) before sitting down in their shaded seating section. When it’s time to leave, double check that you have all your things before climbing on board. The ferry ride from Ometepe to San Jorge takes around an hour.
Once you make it to the other side, you’ll want to find a way to get to the Rivas bus station where you’ll catch a chicken bus to Granada. When we first arrived, despite speaking fluent-ish Spanish, a taxi driver told us that there were no local buses to the station, and that there was no other option besides taxis. Although we knew this probably wasn’t true (and saw a bus depart for the station with our own eyes) we were hot, exhausted, and ready to go. Alas, the three of us got in the taxi and paid a 74 cordobas each, or $2 USD, to be driven to the Rivas bus station.
When we pulled up, I realized that the Rivas bus station was also a local market. Crowded, a little bit stinky and chaotic, it’s easy to get turned around there. The best thing that you can do is ask your taxi driver where to catch the next bus to Granada.
Here’s where things get interesting. Aside from two out of three people in my group being fluent-ish in Spanish, we kept getting pointed every which way when trying to find the Granada bus. Finally, a couple of men ushered us on to an almost fully packed chicken bus and told us the ride would be anywhere from two to three hours. We checked in multiple times in Spanish to make sure we were headed in the right direction and were assured we were.
Once situated in the very back of the bus and packed into a boiling corner, we were asked to pay 100 cordobas ($2.72 USD) for our tickets despite locals only paying 50 cordobas. We didn’t mind too much and spent the next couple hours fanning ourselves, sweating in a way that I didn’t think was humanly possible, and trying to take in sips of fresh air through the half-open window.
About two hours into the trip we realized that we should have been to our destination by then. Looking around in a panic, I tried to get my offline map to work to no success. When I asked the locals around me if we were almost to Granada, their eyes widened with compassion followed by laughs that felt like their way of saying “sorry, suckers”. We were on the wrong bus.
How this happened, I’m not exactly sure, because these were the same locals who were no less than 5 feet away from me when I was checking and double checking upon boarding the bus that it was headed to Granada. Why had no one said anything? Regardless, we had to make a move, and the only move was to be dropped off on the side of the highway. We were told that there’s “a bus that comes by here sometimes” that can take us into Granada as our bags were tossed out the side door behind us.
Standing under the beating sun on the side of the road, I wanted to hitch hike into town but my travel companions wouldn’t allow it. Despite being annoyed that our travel plans were getting disfigured, I had to laugh and was glad that the locals got a kick out of witnessing our panic and confusion. After pacing around for a few minutes, another chicken bus did indeed stop by the curb that was headed to Granada. Win! We climbed onboard and grabbed another seat in the back. This half hour bus ride was less crowded and more airy, making for a pleasant trip. After we arrived in Granada we walked 20 minutes to our accommodation at Casa Azul.
Important Note: Before our bus took off at Rivas bus station I wanted to use the restroom, so once my friends were situated onboard I got off and asked around for the toilets. If I would have known how much of a maze the market really was, I never would have gone. I got pointed in every which way until I had no idea where I had came from or how to get back. I found myself running through crowded stalls where huge slabs of dead animals hung from ceiling, feeling like I was in a strange horror movie. When I found the restroom I went as fast as humanly possible before almost having a melt down, worried that the bus had left without me. When I asked around to get pointed back in the direction of the bus, I got all sorts of confused answers, cat calling, and people wanting to sell me something rather than help me get unlost. Take it from me: DON’T get off the bus once you’ve found the right one. Use the bathroom before you get to the market!
San Jorge To Granada By Private Shuttle: $40 USD
If taking a chicken bus is way outside of your comfort zone and feels too complicated, consider taking a shared shuttle from San Jorge to Granada. The pick-up is available at San Jorge’s Ferry port at 10:20 and drop-off in Granada is around 12:50 PM. The shuttle has air conditioning and is flexible, offering travelers up to 24 hours in advance for a full refund if your plans change.
San Jorge To Granada By Taxi: Price TBD
The last option that you have to get from San Jorge to Granada is by taxi. If you’re traveling with a group, this could be a great middle-ground option. After considering taking a taxi the whole way to Granada from San Jorge and haggling with a taxi driver, the best he was able to offer us was $25 per person split between 3 people. Prices go up and down depending on the time of year, fluency level in Spanish, and how the driver is feeling that day. May the force be with you!
Where To Stay in Granada, Nicaragua
Once finally in Granda we stayed at Casa Azul. If you’re traveling with a partner and can split the cost or afford a private room on your own, I highly recommend it. They have free meal nights, free yoga classes, organized activities, and a nice pool space to cool off in or meet people. We booked a private room and split it between two of us, which had the most wonderful perk of our own personal air conditioning.
What To Do In Granada, Nicaragua
Granada is not the most exciting town, but it has a solid selection of vegan-friendly food options and is a great jump-off point for other nature-inspired adventures. If you’re looking to fill your belly on a budget, Restaurante Caimito is a Chinese place that is incredibly affordable. Here’s the review I left on HappyCow: “Went here for lunch and spent 120 cordobas on the noodle dish with veggies. It was HUGE! I could have split it with someone else and still had stuff left over. The noodles and veg were good. There were a few options on the menu that could easily be veganized. Would eat here again!”
Once in Granda and ready to venture out, check out these epic activities:
